Modkid Modified: Brooklyn as a Zippered Top

After Patty posted a Brooklyn modification make into a top on Instagram, I knew I need to make a top with one more mod. I envisioned adding a quarter zip, but when I laid these fabrics on my table, I knew I had the perfect separating zipper to coordinate. Which brings me to this tutorial for adding a zipper to a top to make it a layering piece. Remember, the Brooklyn pattern comes in girls, tween/teen, and misses' sizing. The same method will work for all three!

The pattern hack to change a top to a zippered jacket is not as difficult as you might think. Instead of cutting the front bodice on the fold, cut two pieces adding 1/2" seam allowance to the side where the fold would be. You will now have two mirrored front bodice pieces. The length of the top is mostly based on the length of your separating zipper. The top of the zipper will be 2" above the neck seam, so for my 20" zipper, I needed the front bodice to end 18" below the neck seam. Taking seam and hem allowances into count, my bodice needed to be 18" + 1/2" seam allowance at the neck + 1/2" seam allowance at the hem = 19". I also sized up 1 size since this zipper top would be worn over another layer. Sizing up 2 sizes would allow for an less slim fit.

After sewing the should seams, attach the neckband right sides together starting and stopping at the bodice opening. Do not fold the neckband. You are only stitching one raw edge at this point.

Open up the zipper and baste the zipper right sides together with the front bodice. The top of the zipper should be 2" above the neck seam and the zipper stop should be 1/2" from the bottom edge. Pin the top zipper tails so they angle toward the seam allowance.

Fold the neckband down right sides together, so the zipper is sandwiched in between. Using a zipper foot, stitch from the top of the zipper to the bottom. Repeat on the other side of the bodice.

Turn the neckband right side out and topstitch down each side of the zipper securing the seam allowance. 

Fold the neckband in half and pin so the edge of the neckband covers the seam. Topstitch around the neckline with a coverstitch or stretch stitch securing the neckband edges on the wrong side.

Fold the bottom edge to the wrong side 1/2" and hem using a coverstitch, twin needle, or other stretch stitch.

Enjoy adding a new layering piece to your wardrobe!

Modkid Modified // Annika with Gathered Shirttail

Are you ready for some fall sewing inspiration?!? Depending on the weight of fabric used for the Annika Sweater Pattern, this garment can work well for fall or winter. By adding a ruffle shirttail hem, we've created a slightly more feminine look that styles well with jeggings and leggings. In fact, you could easily pair this sweathshirt with a pair of Modkid Perfect Leggings. 

Let's get to the step-by-step tutorial on creating the gathered shirttail hem. First, prepare the sweatshirt according to the pattern instructions up until the hem bands. For this look, cut two front hem bands and omit the back hem band. Prepare the hem bands, but do not attach them just yet.

Also cut 2 rectangular pieces to create the hem ruffle. The length of the rectangle is 1.5 times the full width of the Annika front bodice piece (not on the fold). In my case, 1.5 x 16 = 24" for a size 6. The height of the rectangle is 5.75" for all sizes. This is based on 2.75" + folded hem band height (2.5" for all sizes) + hem allowance so, 2.75 + 2.5 + 0.5 = 5.75". If you would like the ruffle to extend below the hem further, increase the 2.75" number. In my case, I cut 2 rectangles 24" long x 5.75" high. We've used a woven cotton here, but knit fabric would also work.

Sew the short ends of the rectangles right sides together on one side with a 1/2" seam allowance. Finish the seam.

If you like our method of avoiding pressing in the round (tips and tricks link), press a 1/4" hem to the wrong side of the fabric enclosing the raw edge.

Unfold the hem and sew the other short ends of the rectangle right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance creating a circle of fabric. Finish the seam. Repress the hem at the new seam.

Stitch your hem close to the inner fold. Then, use your preferred gathering method to gather the hem ruffle. Check out our gathering tips and tricks here. Gather the fabric circle to match the width of the Annika bodice.

Pin the hem band pieces to the Annika bodice per the pattern instructions. Baste in place if desired. Next, pin the ruffle right sides together to the Annika bodice with raw edges aligned. The hem band will be sandwiched in between. Stitch the seam with 1/2" seam allowance and finish the raw edges. 

Press the seam allowance toward the bodice and the hem and ruffle down.

Check out Sweeter Than Cupcakes for more photos and fabric details.

Also note, this gathered shirttail hem technique can be used for the Annika Girls, Annika Tween/Teen and the Modkid Breeann with the shirttail hem tutorial.

Modkid Modified // Kyra Dress with Hem Ruffle

When I spotted this look from Joyfolie, I was instantly inspire and knew the Kyra pattern would provide the perfect base. The fabrics used here dress up the Kyra. We love this look for Homecoming or Father/Daughter dances! Don't forget; the Kyra comes in Girl's and Teen sizing.

I'm including a few tips for creating this look. In addition to the fabric required for the Kyra dress, you will need 1/2 yard of fabric for the ruffle. The fabrics used to create our dress are rayon spandex (main) and power mesh (ruffle) both found at Joann Fabrics and Crafts. The powermesh is sheer and adds a fun texture, but the unfinished ruffle could be any knit fabric that will not fray.

Use the dress extension pattern piece to create the Kyra Dress. Then add a high/low hem line.

Tips to keep in mind.

1. Align the curve at the side seam.
2. Keep in mind your seam allowance. (See the horizontal bit at the seam allowance.)
3. If you use sheer fabric for the ruffle, don't cut the front too short.

Create the Kyra Dress per the pattern instructions. 

The bottom ruffle adds weight to the fabric, so reinforce the wrong side of the front and back hemline with a 1" strip of knit interfacing. I used Pellon Knit N Stable. Cut the 1" strip using the pattern pieces you created as a guide.

To create the ruffle, cut the 1/2 yard of ruffle fabric into two rectangles 9" long X the wide of the fabric. Trim off the selvage edges. Sew the short ends right sides together creating a circle. Gather one edge of the circle to match the width of the high/low hem. Use our gathering tips here. (I suggest using a contrasting thread for your gathering stitches, so they will be easy to remove later.) Pin the ruffle on top of the hemline with both right sides facing up. Make sure your stitch lines will fall within the interfaced section. Stitch the ruffle to the dress with a stretch stitch, twin needle or coverstitch machine. Remove the gathering stitches, and that's it!

More photos on Sweeter Than Cupcakes.

Modkid Modified // Tessa Shorts

My thoughts of the cute knit leisure shorts I see at Target and using typically fall/winter patterns for summer collided into the creation of these Tessa shorts. The Modkid Tessa pattern features a jogger style pant and sweatshirt pattern.  

It hardly took much to transition the jogger pattern to summer shorts. In lightweight French terry fabric, these are perfect for lounging or playing.

Creating shorts from the Tessa joggers is as simple as shortening the pattern pieces. From the crotch down, I cut the pattern front and back off at 4.5". This allows plenty of room for a 1" cuff. Determine the finished length of the shorts you would like and add 2" for the double folded cuff.

The only other modification I made was to color block the waistband. We have some Tips & Tricks for Color Blocking for you to achieve the same look. Take advantage of both sides of the fabric when working with French terry for a unique look.

Once the shorts are sewn up according to the jogger pattern minus the leg pleats and cuffs, double fold the fabric to the right side to create the shorts cuff. Stitch in the ditch at both leg seams to secure. In my case the French terry draped too much to hold the cuff in place, so you may find that additionally slip stitching the cuff by hand is necessary.

Modkid Modified // Hailey with Elastic Casing

The shirred empire waist of the Modkid Hailey top and dress pattern creates a fitted silhouette that is comfortable and stretchy. Shirring with elastic thread is a fun technique to learn, but we often see requests for an alternative. An elastic casing is the solution. After sewing up an eyelet coverup style Hailey for myself, I decided one for my daughter was in order. I have applied an elastic casing tutorial for your use.

In addition to the free shirring tutorial for the Modkid Hailey, we have a knit neck binding tutorial, so be sure to check that out before diving in. After completing the first three steps of the Hailey pattern instructions for the bodice, sew the side seams below the arm opening and finish the seam allowances. Also, sew the side seams of the skirt pieces and finish the seam allowances. You will now have a separate bodice and skirt piece.

Turn the bodice right sides out and place it inside the skirt so that the right sides are together.

Align the raw edges and sew the seam with a 1/2" seam allowance. Finish the seam, but make sure NOT to trim off any of the seam allowance. Press seam allowance toward the skirt.

Sew a casing by stitching the seam allowance to the skirt 1/8" from the finished edge. Leave a 2" gap close to the side seam for inserting the elastic.

Cut a 1/4" wide piece of elastic the same length as the under bust measurement. Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through the casing. Overlap the elastic 1/2" and sew the ends together making sure the elastic is not twisted inside the casing. Now is a good time to check the fit and adjust the elastic as needed. Very tight elastic here may not result in a comfortable fit. Sew the casing closed at the 2" opening.

Hem the dress or top and you are done!! You can find more photos of this Hailey on Sweeter Than Cupcakes.

Don't forget that we have 3 different size ranges for the Hailey pattern, Girls, Tween, and Misses. This elastic casing method will work well for all three!

Modkid Modified // Sleeveless Vivian

Sleeveless button-downs and shirtdresses are a classic summer style. Altering the Vivian Shirtdress to a sleeveless style only requires a few basic steps.

Let me walk you through the pattern alterations first. A dress with sleeves will have a larger armscye to accommodate the sleeve and the shoulder will extend to point where the shoulder/arm bend. To avoid gaping without the sleeve, we need to bring the underarm of the armscye up and the shoulder in. Tape a piece of paper behind your pattern piece to construct the changes. The shoulder width I've used is 2.5" for the size 7 shirtdress. I also brought the armscye up by 3/4". These measurements will vary by size, so I recommend checking with an existing shirt or muslin. Keep in mind you will lose an additional 1/4" when the binding is attached. Mark the shoulder point and underarm point then draw a new curve between them.

The same alterations need to be made for the back of the pattern. Overlap the top panel with the bottom panel 1/2" for the seam allowance and align at the armscye. Again, mark the new shoulder and underarm points and draw the curve between.

Trim the pattern to the new armscye.

After completing the dress per the pattern instructions, it is time to apply binding to the armscye. I am using pre-made 1/2" single fold bias tape. Starting pinning the bias tape to the armscye right sides together with the beginning end extending past the underarm seam 1/2". Pin all the way around.

You can see how my bias tape overlaps the underarm seam.

Trim the end of the bias tape 1/2" past the underarm seam so both ends overlap and mark where the seam location is on each end of the bias tape.

Pull your last pins out, so you can bring the bias tape right sides together. Stitch the bias tape at the marked seam.

Press the seam allowance open.

Stitch the bias tape to the armscye in the first fold of the bias tape.

Press the seam allowance toward the bias tape and the bias tape away from the shirt.

Now, press the bias tape to the inside of the armscye making sure the inner fold is tucked inside.



Stitch along the inner folded edge of the bias tape enclosing all raw edges.

Press the seam from the right side for a nice crisp finish.

Don't forget we also have a tutorial for shortening the Shirtdress to a top length. This sleeveless alteration will certainly work well for both styles.