Modkid Modified: Cassidy with a Gathered Skirt

We have already brought you one modification for the Cassidy pattern, and now we are back with more. Nothing says fall like a little denim and flannel!!

I made this variation on the Cassidy dress using Patty Young's Acorn Valley flannels, and I'm going to show you how easy it is!

First, I wanted the bodice to extend a little lower for the gathers. When cutting the front and back bodice, simply add 1" at the bottom using a clear ruler. Complete the bodice as instructed in the pattern.

The other change when cutting, is to lay the skirt pattern piece on the fold of the fabric. Then, cut the fabric the same height of the skirt pattern, but use the full wide of the fabric. Do not cut along the side seam line. You should now have a long rectangular skirt piece. You will need to cut the same piece for the back skirt.

You may notice with the bodice extension that this will result in your dress being 1" longer than the original pattern. I found this length perfect with the gathered skirt. The length is also fully adjustable with the dress straps.

Now, create a tube with the skirt pieces. Sew the short sides right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance and finish the seams. Hem the skirt at this point by folding the bottom edge to the wrong side 1/4". Then fold again 3/4". Stitch along the inner fold.

Next comes gathering. We have a full gathering tutorial here.

Turn the skirt wrong side out and insert the bodice inside aligning the raw edges. Attach the gathered skirt to the completed bodice right sides together aligning the side seams with the middle of the button placket. Stitch with 1/2" seam allowance and finish the seam. Press the seam allowance toward the bodice and topstitch in place.

Now you have a twirly Cassidy!

This dress is featured today on Sweeter Than Cupcakes along with the Modkid Sydney pattern for the Back to School blog tour. Come check it out and grab the coupon code!

Modkid Modified: Dakota Flounce Sleeve

Today's tutorial illustrates how to use the slash and spread method to change the straight sleeve style of the Dakota top to a flounce sleeve. 

After printing the sleeve pattern piece, draw lines at a 1" spacing starting from the overlap side of the sleeve.

Cut the markings up to the top of the sleeve, but not all the way through. You want to create a "hinge" point. The goal is to maintain the top length of the sleeve piece and widen the bottom.

Overlap the two sleeve sections at the top and tape them to a piece of freezer paper or tracing paper. Open and spread the bottom sections 1" along the bottom. Tape in place and trace out the new pattern piece. 

Once cut, your piece should look like the one above. Clip your notches as you normally would.

Sew the pattern per the pattern instructions. The only difference I suggest is a narrow hem on the sleeve since it is now such a curved piece. I used a narrow rolled hem foot on my sewing machine, but a 1/4" hem would work as well. 

Be sure to let us know if you give this technique a try!!

Modkid Modified - Ruffled Susie Halter and Shorts

We know there are more than a few of you that are huge fans of ruffles. The recently released Modkid Susie halter top and shorts pattern does not feature ruffle embellishments, so I thought I could show you how to incorporate a ruffle or two. 

Construct the halter top through step 5 of the pattern instructions. For my ruffle I used two 5" strips cut the width of the fabric. I did not shorten the length of the original halter pattern when adding the ruffle, but in hindsight, I wish I had removed an inch or two. You might keep that in mind for your application. Sew the two strips right sides together along the short ends, finish the seams, and press to one side. Gather one edge of this fabric tube using your favorite method. Check out our Gathering Tips and Tricks post for more details. Go ahead and press your hem 1/4" to the wrong side then another 1/2" to the wrong side.

Pin and stitch the ruffle to the right side of the halter top aligning raw edges and side seams. Adjust your gathers as needed before stitching in place. Finish the seam.

Press the ruffle down and the seam allowance toward the halter top. Topstitch along the top side of the seam. Hem the bottom of the ruffle by stitching along the inner folded edge.

I wanted to compliment the large halter ruffle with smaller ruffles on the shorts. I omitted the shorts pocket, but you could certainly keep it. Another idea would be to add a ruffle along the center front seams. First, sew up the shorts until you get to the bottom hem. You will need two 2" strips the full width of the fabric. Sew each strip right sides together along the short ends creating two tubes of fabric, one for each shorts leg. Hem the tubes along one side with a narrow hem. I used a narrow hem foot on my sewing machine. You could do a rolled hem or fold the strip to the wrong side 1/4" then another 1/4". Gather the opposite edge of the tubes with your preferred method.

Pin the ruffles to the shorts legs right sides together. Adjust the gathers as needed and stitch in place. Finish the seam.

Press the ruffle down and the seam allowance toward the shorts. Topstitch along the shorts leg. Repeat for the other shorts leg.

Enjoy this super sweet version of the Modkid Susie Pattern! Be sure to show us yours in the Modkid Facebook Group!!

Modkid Modified: Kendall Skirt Simplified

Did you know there are more hidden options within the Kendall Skirt pattern? Usually I'm here adding new twists to patterns, but today, I'm simplifying the skirt for an all together different look. 

There is actually not even much of a tutorial to include!! All I have done is omitted pattern piece E for the small wedge! 

So, as far as the sewing goes, the large wedges are sewn right sides together for the full diagonal side. There is no stopping and pivoting required, and there are 12 less pieces of the puzzle. I was able to sew this version with fat quarters!

You'll loose a smidgen of the twirl, but as you can see, there is plenty of volume for a little twirl factor. You'll find that it is a quick way to add a little variety to your Kendall pattern.

Did you also know there are full instructions in the pattern for lengthening and shortening the skirt? We would love to see someone sew up a maxi version!! Food for thought!

Modkid Modified // Hailey Pullover

The Modkid Hailey pattern is usually reserved for warmer temperatures. Today, I am transforming the Hailey to a pullover for layering in cooler temps. It is quite a transformation, but the steps are pretty simple.

You will only need the Back Bodice pattern piece. Trace the Back Bodice pattern piece onto a piece of freezer paper or tissue paper to create a new pattern piece. Lengthen the top as desired using a well fitting shirt as a guide. Keep in mind you will have a 1/2" hem, and you may want the top to hit shorter than the top you will layer it with. I added 5.75" to this size 4 pattern piece.

Now, create the front pattern piece. The front pattern piece is a duplicate of the back, but the neck scoops down further. Again, use another pattern or a well fitting shirt as a guide.

Cut the front and back pattern pieces from your fabric. I recommend fleece or sweatshirt fabric for this look. Just be sure you have at least 25% stretch with good recovery.

Sew the front piece to the back piece along the shoulders right sides together. Finish the seams.

Open out the top and finish all of the outer edges. If your fabric does not fray, you may skip this step.

Turn the underarm seams 1/2" to the wrong side and hem. Go slow along the curves. Repeat at all four underarm seams.

Next, fold the front bottom hem to the wrong side 1/2" and sew in place. Repeat for the back.

Fold the sleeves to the wrong side 1/2" and sew in place. Repeat for the opposite side.

For the mock turtleneck, you will need to cut a rectangle to fit the neckline. Measure the distance around your neck opening for the length. Mine measured 14.25". Add 1" for seam allowances. I used 5.5" for the total height. So, my rectangle was 15.25" x 5.5". Fold the neck right sides together and sew the short ends with a 1/2" seam allowance. Press the seam open.

Fold the neck in half along the long side with the right side facing out.

Place the neck band around the neck opening of the top right side together and sew in place. Be sure to use a stretch stitch here since the neck area with need to stretch overhead.

Fold the front over the back and stitch the front to the back under the arm opening. Stitch over your previous hem stitches.

Secure the sides together with 3 buttons spaced evenly on each side.

Done! Layer up your modified Hailey for those cooler temps! Don't forget this method would work for the Hailey Misses and Hailey Tween/Teen as well!

Modkid Modified // Breeann with Lined Hood

This may be one of the simplest ways to modify a hooded top pattern, yet it gives you such great versatility. Some fabrics need lining due to being ugly or uncomfortable on the wrong side. A lined hood also gives additional warm or a fun place to add a pop of color. I've used this technique to line the hood of a Modkid Breeann, but this would work just the same for the new Modkid Dakota pattern.

There really are only a few basic steps for lining a hood. Cut out your main hood pattern pieces, then cut two additional hood pattern pieces in your lining fabric. Sew the main hood pieces right sides together around the curved center seam. Repeat for the hood lining pieces.

Place the main hood piece right sides together with the lining hood piece aligning the center seam at the top of the hood. Stitch the lining to the hood around the front of the hood with a 1/2" seam allowance since that was the hem allowance for an unlined hood.

Turn the hood right sides out. Press and topstitch along the front seam you just created. Baste the layers together at the neck edge. Now you are ready to attach the hood following the pattern instructions. Just treat the double layered hood as one piece.

Modkid Modified // Breeann Shirttail Hem

The Modkid Breeann is one of a few patterns designed specifically for tween sizing ranging from 8/9 to 16. It is such a great piece on its own or layered. This is the first of two posts I've put together for a little modified version. Today, I'll show you how I swapped the banded hem for a shirttail hem.

Cut all of your pattern pieces as indicated in the pattern except the waistband and pocket. Sew up the Breeann top per the pattern instructions omitting the pocket. Stop when you get to the waistband instructions. Measure the front and back of the bottom of your top from side seam to side seam. This was 15" for mine.

Add 1" to the width you measured for the length of your shirttail bands. Determine the finished height you would like for the bands and double it. For an asymmetrical look, I've used a height of 4" for the front and 6" for the back. So, the bands I cut were 4" x 16" and 6" x 16".

Fold the bands in half lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch along each short end with a 1/2" seam allowance. Trim the corners at the fold.

Turn the bands right side out and press well.

Pin the bands right sides together, raw edges aligned to the shirt front and back. Align the shirttail ends with the side seams. Stitch to the bottom of the shirt with a 1/2" seam allowance.

Fold the shirttail down and press the seam allowance toward the shirt front and back. Topstitch close to the seam on the shirt side. That's it for a simple switch to add variety to your Modkid Breeann!