Modkid Modified: Adding a Flounce to Aubrey

During testing for the Modkid Aubrey Dress, Nicole of K & A Couture added a sweet flounce to the bottom of one of her dresses. We've invited her to share her tutorial with us today!

Step 1 - Print, cut, and tape the pattern pieces together! Don’t add the 4th page (the bottom piece) of the center front and back pattern pieces.

Step 2 - Measure the grey shaded area to get the width across the bottom, this is where you will be adding the flounce. Example: The size I’m working on measures 8.125 inches. This will be the “waist” of the circle skirt.

Step 3 - The waist circumference will end up being 32.5 before seam allowances. (8.12 *4 = 32.5)  with a seam allowance of ½ inch which means I will end up with 30.5 circumference without seam allowances

Step 4 - Divide your circumference by 6.28 (pie * 2) Why do keyboards not have the pie symbol? In my example I will have 4.85”.

Step 5 - Determine the length needed to reach your desired length on the dress. My daughter’s are tall so I just measure on her where I want it to fall. In my example I need the overall length to be 27” from shoulder to hem. Subtracting the length of the center panel piece, I want my flounce to be 6” (including my ½ inch seam allowance). Make sure to include your hem allowance as well.

Step 6 -  Here you can either make a paper pattern piece or fold your fabric and cut if you are the adventurous type!!

Below is a pic of how your pattern piece will look on your fabric!

Below is a step by step how to make the a pattern piece.

Freezer Paper is a cheap way make a pattern piece

Make a straight line on the paper creating a 90 degree angle from the edge of the paper. Use your measurement from Step 4, measure down from the corner, do this all the way from your straight line to the other edge of the paper.

Once you’ve measured all the way from the corner, you should end up with a curve like this.

Connect the dots to create a semi circle.

Now use your measurement from Step 5. From your top line measure down in my example this will be 6”, create another semi circle with dots.

You will end up with two lines that create a semi circle.

Here’s what you will end up with. This is your circle skirt pattern piece!! Now cut out the pattern piece!

Cut your pattern pieces according to the Pattern Tutorial. (Above pic my circle skirt pattern piece I had made before I started the tutorial, also my fabric is directional so I am cutting two pieces and will sew them together to create my circle) Below pictures show how to fold the fabric if you are using a non-directional fabric.

Fold fabric one way.

Then fold over on to itself. Creating folds on both sides.

Place your pattern piece on the folds and cut.

After you’ve cut your circle skirt out, I like to add a nice pretty rolled hem to finish it off.

Finish your dress according to the pattern tutorial except when it comes to the hemming of the bottom of the dress. You should end up with a circle and an almost finished dress like the above.

Line up your two raw edges.

Flip the flounce up on top of the dress. Line up the raw edges with right sides together.

Pin the edges of the flounce to the dress, make sure to not catch the pocket in this seam. If your math was spot on you should not have to stretch any part of this seam. Stretching it to fit, will make this  seam wavy once sewn.

Once sewn I like to topstitch this seam to give it a finishing touch.

See how pretty it looks!

Modkid Modified: Cassidy with a Gathered Skirt

We have already brought you one modification for the Cassidy pattern, and now we are back with more. Nothing says fall like a little denim and flannel!!

I made this variation on the Cassidy dress using Patty Young's Acorn Valley flannels, and I'm going to show you how easy it is!

First, I wanted the bodice to extend a little lower for the gathers. When cutting the front and back bodice, simply add 1" at the bottom using a clear ruler. Complete the bodice as instructed in the pattern.

The other change when cutting, is to lay the skirt pattern piece on the fold of the fabric. Then, cut the fabric the same height of the skirt pattern, but use the full wide of the fabric. Do not cut along the side seam line. You should now have a long rectangular skirt piece. You will need to cut the same piece for the back skirt.

You may notice with the bodice extension that this will result in your dress being 1" longer than the original pattern. I found this length perfect with the gathered skirt. The length is also fully adjustable with the dress straps.

Now, create a tube with the skirt pieces. Sew the short sides right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance and finish the seams. Hem the skirt at this point by folding the bottom edge to the wrong side 1/4". Then fold again 3/4". Stitch along the inner fold.

Next comes gathering. We have a full gathering tutorial here.

Turn the skirt wrong side out and insert the bodice inside aligning the raw edges. Attach the gathered skirt to the completed bodice right sides together aligning the side seams with the middle of the button placket. Stitch with 1/2" seam allowance and finish the seam. Press the seam allowance toward the bodice and topstitch in place.

Now you have a twirly Cassidy!

This dress is featured today on Sweeter Than Cupcakes along with the Modkid Sydney pattern for the Back to School blog tour. Come check it out and grab the coupon code!

Modkid Modified: Dakota Flounce Sleeve

Today's tutorial illustrates how to use the slash and spread method to change the straight sleeve style of the Dakota top to a flounce sleeve. 

After printing the sleeve pattern piece, draw lines at a 1" spacing starting from the overlap side of the sleeve.

Cut the markings up to the top of the sleeve, but not all the way through. You want to create a "hinge" point. The goal is to maintain the top length of the sleeve piece and widen the bottom.

Overlap the two sleeve sections at the top and tape them to a piece of freezer paper or tracing paper. Open and spread the bottom sections 1" along the bottom. Tape in place and trace out the new pattern piece. 

Once cut, your piece should look like the one above. Clip your notches as you normally would.

Sew the pattern per the pattern instructions. The only difference I suggest is a narrow hem on the sleeve since it is now such a curved piece. I used a narrow rolled hem foot on my sewing machine, but a 1/4" hem would work as well. 

Be sure to let us know if you give this technique a try!!

Modkid Modified - Ruffled Susie Halter and Shorts

We know there are more than a few of you that are huge fans of ruffles. The recently released Modkid Susie halter top and shorts pattern does not feature ruffle embellishments, so I thought I could show you how to incorporate a ruffle or two. 

Construct the halter top through step 5 of the pattern instructions. For my ruffle I used two 5" strips cut the width of the fabric. I did not shorten the length of the original halter pattern when adding the ruffle, but in hindsight, I wish I had removed an inch or two. You might keep that in mind for your application. Sew the two strips right sides together along the short ends, finish the seams, and press to one side. Gather one edge of this fabric tube using your favorite method. Check out our Gathering Tips and Tricks post for more details. Go ahead and press your hem 1/4" to the wrong side then another 1/2" to the wrong side.

Pin and stitch the ruffle to the right side of the halter top aligning raw edges and side seams. Adjust your gathers as needed before stitching in place. Finish the seam.

Press the ruffle down and the seam allowance toward the halter top. Topstitch along the top side of the seam. Hem the bottom of the ruffle by stitching along the inner folded edge.

I wanted to compliment the large halter ruffle with smaller ruffles on the shorts. I omitted the shorts pocket, but you could certainly keep it. Another idea would be to add a ruffle along the center front seams. First, sew up the shorts until you get to the bottom hem. You will need two 2" strips the full width of the fabric. Sew each strip right sides together along the short ends creating two tubes of fabric, one for each shorts leg. Hem the tubes along one side with a narrow hem. I used a narrow hem foot on my sewing machine. You could do a rolled hem or fold the strip to the wrong side 1/4" then another 1/4". Gather the opposite edge of the tubes with your preferred method.

Pin the ruffles to the shorts legs right sides together. Adjust the gathers as needed and stitch in place. Finish the seam.

Press the ruffle down and the seam allowance toward the shorts. Topstitch along the shorts leg. Repeat for the other shorts leg.

Enjoy this super sweet version of the Modkid Susie Pattern! Be sure to show us yours in the Modkid Facebook Group!!

Modkid Modified: Kendall Skirt Simplified

Did you know there are more hidden options within the Kendall Skirt pattern? Usually I'm here adding new twists to patterns, but today, I'm simplifying the skirt for an all together different look. 

There is actually not even much of a tutorial to include!! All I have done is omitted pattern piece E for the small wedge! 

So, as far as the sewing goes, the large wedges are sewn right sides together for the full diagonal side. There is no stopping and pivoting required, and there are 12 less pieces of the puzzle. I was able to sew this version with fat quarters!

You'll loose a smidgen of the twirl, but as you can see, there is plenty of volume for a little twirl factor. You'll find that it is a quick way to add a little variety to your Kendall pattern.

Did you also know there are full instructions in the pattern for lengthening and shortening the skirt? We would love to see someone sew up a maxi version!! Food for thought!