Tips & Tricks: Elastic Waistband

Friday, May 27, 2016


Included in the Modkid Perfect Legging pattern is our favorite knit waistband tutorial. What makes it so great? NO CASING!! Plus, it lays flat, and the elastic won't twist inside a casing. You just might find it to be your favorite too! We are going to show you just how we do it here too.


Stitch your pre-cut elastic into a circle. If you don't have a length provided in your pattern, 1-2" less than the length around the wearer's waist is a good rule of thumb. The elastic should be cut shorter than the waist measurement since it will stretch out when sewn and worn. To minimize bulk, just meet the ends of the elastic and stitch a wide zigzag across the edges. You may stitch several times over the area to reinforce the seam. Give it a tug, and you will find a nice sturdy connection.


Quarter mark your waistband and elastic. Do this by folding the elastic at the seam and marking the opposite fold. Now, bring the seam and the new mark across from one another to divide the band in the other direction. Similarly mark the leggings.


Align the elastic seam with the back seam of the leggings and pin to the wrong side of the fabric. Align the elastic edge with the raw edge of the leggings. Continue to pin at the quarter marks stretching the elastic to fit. Pin in between the quarter marks if desired. Serge or zigzag the top edge of the elastic, catching the raw edge of the fabric beneath. Stretch the elastic slightly as you do this, but do not stretch the fabric. I like to make sure my serger knife is disengaged at this point.


Fold the elastic down toward the wrong side of the garment, encasing the elastic and keeping the fabric taut around the elastic. Pin in place.  From the right side of the garment, topstich the bottom edge using either a Coverstitch machine, a twin needle on your sewing machine, or a wide zigzag stitch.


A flat and easy finish, just like we like it!!

Introducing the Laguna Shirts Collection and Perfect Leggings

Tuesday, May 10, 2016

Modkid recently released some of the most versatile knit patterns that you will really need in your collection!! Let's start with the Laguna Summer Shirts Collection


The pattern includes 4 basic views for tons of variety. Each view begins with the same front and back piece adding to the simplicity.


These are just a few of the great tester photos. This is one of those patterns that can be used over and over all summer long!!


The pattern cover as well as the photos below feature Patty's new knit line for Riley Blake called Acorn Valley


The tops above are paired with the Perfect Leggings Pattern. With three cutting lengths including shorts, capri, and full length, the options can look different every time you sew. 


Don't forget about embellishments!! Patty provides instructions for rings of ruffles as well as a ruched version with a placket.



Play with different hemming options like lettuce-edge rolled hems, or use stretch trims or decorative buttons to add extra flair. Our leggings are designed with a higher rise in the back and a slimmer fit through the legs.

Grab your knits and let's get sewing!!

Tips & Tricks: Knit Neck Binding 3 Ways

Friday, April 29, 2016


Today, I'm going to shed a little light on various methods for finishing a knit neckline. With some traditional methods and some non-traditional, you have options, so choose your favorite! 

Be sure to check out our Tips for Sewing with Knits before you begin. Using a ballpoint needle and stretch thread in your bobbin are some keys to success. 

NON-TRADITIONAL BINDING


I have started with a strip of fabric that is 2" wide. A good rule of thumb for the length of all of these bands is 10% shorter than the length of the neck opening. The band needs to be slightly shorter than the neck opening to lay flat when worn. I would recommend using a little wider neck binding than I used here, 2 1/2" to 3" would be good. Press the long side in half wrong sides together.


Open up the crease, and sew the short ends right sides together.


Press the seam allowance open.


Refold the band along the center seam.


Place pins in the neckband to mark at the center front, back, and halfway between each side of the binding piece.


Turn the shirt wrong side out. Align the raw edges, and pin the neckband to the wrong side of the neckline at the marked locations starting with the neckband seam at the back. The other marked locations will be at the shoulder seams and the front center. Pin the band in between stretching it slightly to fit the neckline.


Stitch the band to the shirt with a 1/4" seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Press the neckband and seam allowance away from the shirt.


Fold the binding over the neckline edge and pin in place encasing the edge of the neckline. Do not fold the neckline edge over in the process.


Topstitch around the folded edge with a stretch stitch or twin needle. Press well.

TRADITIONAL NECK BINDING


For this method, I have started with a strip of fabric that is 2" wide. A good rule of thumb for the length of all of these bands is 10% shorter than the length of the neck opening. The band needs to be slightly shorter than the neck opening to lay flat when worn. Sew the short ends of the band right sides together and press open.


Place pins in the neckband to mark at the center front, back, and halfway between each side of the binding piece.


Pin a raw edge to the neckline right sides together at the marked locations. Here, I aligned the neckband seam with the shoulder seam. The other pins would then be at the opposite shoulder, the center front, and the center back. Continue pinning in between, stretching the band slightly to fit.


Stitch with a stretch stitch and 3/8" seam allowance.


Press the band and seam allowance up away from the shirt.


Fold the band over the edge of the neckline while tucking the raw edge to the center encasing all raw edges. Think of this the same as you would bias binding. Lots of pins helps here.


Tuck a tag in the back if desired. Topstitch from the right side along the edge with a stretch stitch or twin needle.

NECK BAND


For this method, I have started with a strip of fabric that is 2" wide. A good rule of thumb for the length of all of these bands is 10% shorter than the length of the neck opening. The band needs to be slightly shorter than the neck opening to lay flat when worn.


Press the neckband in half along the long side with wrong sides together. Open up the fold and sew the short ends right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open and refold the band along the center crease.


Place pins in the neckband to mark at the center front, the center back, and halfway between these points. Pin the neckband to the right side of the neckline at the marked locations starting with the neckband seam at the shoulder seam. The other marked locations will be at the opposite shoulder seam, the center front, and the center back. Pin the band in between stretching it slightly to fit the neckline.

Stitch the neckband to the neckline with a stretch stitch or serger. Here I stitched it in place first, then finished the edge with the serger. Press the seam allowance toward the shirt and the neckband away from the shirt. Optionally, topstitch the seam allowance with a stretch stitch or twin needle.

Experiment with these methods to find your favorite!! Suggested patterns for these tips include Melanie, Breeann, Melanie Misses, Rachel, Morgan, Penny, and more!!

Selfish Sewing Inspiration

Monday, April 11, 2016

It is Selfish Sewing Week over on Kollabora hosted by Imagine Gnats. Did you know Modkid Patterns were available to purchase on Kollabora as well? Shop here for your favorite Modkid supplies.

I've gathered a few of our Women's patterns to inspire your sewing for the week.








 




As always Modkid patterns are available in our Etsy Shop and on Craftsy. The patterns do not have to be purchased on Kollabora to participate in Selfish Sewing Week. Be sure to let us know what you sew in the Modkid Facebook Group!

Modkid Modified - Ruffled Susie Halter and Shorts

Thursday, April 07, 2016


We know there are more than a few of you that are huge fans of ruffles. The recently released Modkid Susie halter top and shorts pattern does not feature ruffle embellishments, so I thought I could show you how to incorporate a ruffle or two. 


Construct the halter top through step 5 of the pattern instructions. For my ruffle I used two 5" strips cut the width of the fabric. I did not shorten the length of the original halter pattern when adding the ruffle, but in hindsight, I wish I had removed an inch or two. You might keep that in mind for your application. Sew the two strips right sides together along the short ends, finish the seams, and press to one side. Gather one edge of this fabric tube using your favorite method. Check out our Gathering Tips and Tricks post for more details. Go ahead and press your hem 1/4" to the wrong side then another 1/2" to the wrong side.


Pin and stitch the ruffle to the right side of the halter top aligning raw edges and side seams. Adjust your gathers as needed before stitching in place. Finish the seam.


Press the ruffle down and the seam allowance toward the halter top. Topstitch along the top side of the seam. Hem the bottom of the ruffle by stitching along the inner folded edge.


I wanted to compliment the large halter ruffle with smaller ruffles on the shorts. I omitted the shorts pocket, but you could certainly keep it. Another idea would be to add a ruffle along the center front seams. First, sew up the shorts until you get to the bottom hem. You will need two 2" strips the full width of the fabric. Sew each strip right sides together along the short ends creating two tubes of fabric, one for each shorts leg. Hem the tubes along one side with a narrow hem. I used a narrow hem foot on my sewing machine. You could do a rolled hem or fold the strip to the wrong side 1/4" then another 1/4". Gather the opposite edge of the tubes with your preferred method.


Pin the ruffles to the shorts legs right sides together. Adjust the gathers as needed and stitch in place. Finish the seam.


Press the ruffle down and the seam allowance toward the shorts. Topstitch along the shorts leg. Repeat for the other shorts leg.


Enjoy this super sweet version of the Modkid Susie Pattern! Be sure to show us yours in the Modkid Facebook Group!!

Introducing Modkid Susie

Thursday, March 31, 2016

I am thrilled to introduce to you the Modkid Susie pattern in part because it is the first pattern where I played a major roll in the design. (It's me, Courtney, so you don't have to scroll to the author spot on the post.) The Susie pattern pairs a halter style top with shorts to provide comfort and style for summertime play. The shorts feature a slant pocket, flat-front waistband, and elastic back. The lengthened shirttail hem of the halter top adds coverage, style and an opportunity for imaginative embellishment. It begs for playfulness!

Grab the SUSIE PATTERN on sale for the first 24 hours from Etsy or Craftsy!!

Our testers gave fantastic feedback, inspiring combinations, and lots of encouragement.

Christine Griffin Grace

Amanda Rose

Axa Francis

Bethany Cooler


Donna Leng

Darcy Struble

Heather Turner

Courtney Davis

Courtney Davis

Jenny Fish

Jessica Phillips

Lore Hill

Maria Luisa Santos

Mariana Moraca

Melissa Malice

Misia Mould

Shirley Soon

Tiffany Hering

Heidi Emak

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