Tips & Tricks: Knit Neck Binding 3 Ways

Friday, April 29, 2016


Today, I'm going to shed a little light on various methods for finishing a knit neckline. With some traditional methods and some non-traditional, you have options, so choose your favorite! 

Be sure to check out our Tips for Sewing with Knits before you begin. Using a ballpoint needle and stretch thread in your bobbin are some keys to success. 

NON-TRADITIONAL BINDING


I have started with a strip of fabric that is 2" wide. A good rule of thumb for the length of all of these bands is 10% shorter than the length of the neck opening. The band needs to be slightly shorter than the neck opening to lay flat when worn. I would recommend using a little wider neck binding than I used here, 2 1/2" to 3" would be good. Press the long side in half wrong sides together.


Open up the crease, and sew the short ends right sides together.


Press the seam allowance open.


Refold the band along the center seam.


Place pins in the neckband to mark at the center front, back, and halfway between each side of the binding piece.


Turn the shirt wrong side out. Align the raw edges, and pin the neckband to the wrong side of the neckline at the marked locations starting with the neckband seam at the back. The other marked locations will be at the shoulder seams and the front center. Pin the band in between stretching it slightly to fit the neckline.


Stitch the band to the shirt with a 1/4" seam allowance and a stretch stitch. Press the neckband and seam allowance away from the shirt.


Fold the binding over the neckline edge and pin in place encasing the edge of the neckline. Do not fold the neckline edge over in the process.


Topstitch around the folded edge with a stretch stitch or twin needle. Press well.

TRADITIONAL NECK BINDING


For this method, I have started with a strip of fabric that is 2" wide. A good rule of thumb for the length of all of these bands is 10% shorter than the length of the neck opening. The band needs to be slightly shorter than the neck opening to lay flat when worn. Sew the short ends of the band right sides together and press open.


Place pins in the neckband to mark at the center front, back, and halfway between each side of the binding piece.


Pin a raw edge to the neckline right sides together at the marked locations. Here, I aligned the neckband seam with the shoulder seam. The other pins would then be at the opposite shoulder, the center front, and the center back. Continue pinning in between, stretching the band slightly to fit.


Stitch with a stretch stitch and 3/8" seam allowance.


Press the band and seam allowance up away from the shirt.


Fold the band over the edge of the neckline while tucking the raw edge to the center encasing all raw edges. Think of this the same as you would bias binding. Lots of pins helps here.


Tuck a tag in the back if desired. Topstitch from the right side along the edge with a stretch stitch or twin needle.

NECK BAND


For this method, I have started with a strip of fabric that is 2" wide. A good rule of thumb for the length of all of these bands is 10% shorter than the length of the neck opening. The band needs to be slightly shorter than the neck opening to lay flat when worn.


Press the neckband in half along the long side with wrong sides together. Open up the fold and sew the short ends right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance. Press the seam allowance open and refold the band along the center crease.


Place pins in the neckband to mark at the center front, the center back, and halfway between these points. Pin the neckband to the right side of the neckline at the marked locations starting with the neckband seam at the shoulder seam. The other marked locations will be at the opposite shoulder seam, the center front, and the center back. Pin the band in between stretching it slightly to fit the neckline.

Stitch the neckband to the neckline with a stretch stitch or serger. Here I stitched it in place first, then finished the edge with the serger. Press the seam allowance toward the shirt and the neckband away from the shirt. Optionally, topstitch the seam allowance with a stretch stitch or twin needle.

Experiment with these methods to find your favorite!! Suggested patterns for these tips include Melanie, Breeann, Melanie Misses, Rachel, Morgan, Penny, and more!!

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