During testing for the Modkid Aubrey Dress, Nicole of K & A Couture added a sweet flounce to the bottom of one of her dresses. We've invited her to share her tutorial with us today!
Step 1 - Print, cut, and tape the pattern pieces together! Don’t add the 4th page (the bottom piece) of the center front and back pattern pieces.
Step 2 - Measure the grey shaded area to get the width across the bottom, this is where you will be adding the flounce. Example: The size I’m working on measures 8.125 inches. This will be the “waist” of the circle skirt.
Step 3 - The waist circumference will end up being 32.5 before seam allowances. (8.12 *4 = 32.5) with a seam allowance of ½ inch which means I will end up with 30.5 circumference without seam allowances
Step 4 - Divide your circumference by 6.28 (pie * 2) Why do keyboards not have the pie symbol? In my example I will have 4.85”.
Step 5 - Determine the length needed to reach your desired length on the dress. My daughter’s are tall so I just measure on her where I want it to fall. In my example I need the overall length to be 27” from shoulder to hem. Subtracting the length of the center panel piece, I want my flounce to be 6” (including my ½ inch seam allowance). Make sure to include your hem allowance as well.
Step 6 - Here you can either make a paper pattern piece or fold your fabric and cut if you are the adventurous type!!
Below is a pic of how your pattern piece will look on your fabric!
Below is a step by step how to make the a pattern piece.
Freezer Paper is a cheap way make a pattern piece
Make a straight line on the paper creating a 90 degree angle from the edge of the paper. Use your measurement from Step 4, measure down from the corner, do this all the way from your straight line to the other edge of the paper.
Once you’ve measured all the way from the corner, you should end up with a curve like this.
Connect the dots to create a semi circle.
Now use your measurement from Step 5. From your top line measure down in my example this will be 6”, create another semi circle with dots.
You will end up with two lines that create a semi circle.
Here’s what you will end up with. This is your circle skirt pattern piece!! Now cut out the pattern piece!
Cut your pattern pieces according to the Pattern Tutorial. (Above pic my circle skirt pattern piece I had made before I started the tutorial, also my fabric is directional so I am cutting two pieces and will sew them together to create my circle) Below pictures show how to fold the fabric if you are using a non-directional fabric.
Fold fabric one way.
Then fold over on to itself. Creating folds on both sides.
Place your pattern piece on the folds and cut.
After you’ve cut your circle skirt out, I like to add a nice pretty rolled hem to finish it off.
Finish your dress according to the pattern tutorial except when it comes to the hemming of the bottom of the dress. You should end up with a circle and an almost finished dress like the above.
Line up your two raw edges.
Flip the flounce up on top of the dress. Line up the raw edges with right sides together.
Pin the edges of the flounce to the dress, make sure to not catch the pocket in this seam. If your math was spot on you should not have to stretch any part of this seam. Stretching it to fit, will make this seam wavy once sewn.
Once sewn I like to topstitch this seam to give it a finishing touch.
See how pretty it looks!