Today we will apply all of the bias tape you so diligently pressed yesterday.
With the bodice wrong side out, open up the bias tape and pin the right side of the bias to the wrong side of the bodice starting at the bottom of the back opening. Continue pinning all the way around the bodice, over the shoulders, and around the neckline. You will end up back at the bottom on the other side of the back bodice. Trim off the excess bias tape.
Stitch the bias tape to the bodice along the first crease line. Pay extra attention to the narrow shoulder areas, so you do not catch the bias for the other side in your seam. Go slowly and do not stretch your fabric as you go. For knit fabrics, I use a longer straight stitch with stretch thread in the bobbin.
Turn the bodice right side out and begin folding the bias tape to the right side using your creases as a guide. The raw edges should be completely encased by the bias tape.
Stitch along the inner fold of the bias tape. With knit fabrics, use a wide zig-zag or other stretch stitch. I used a triple stretch stitch with stretch thread in the bobbin of my machine.
If you are using FOE here, you will fold the FOE around the raw edges and stitch it with a stretch stitch stretching the FOE ever so slightly as you go.
See the rest of the Malibu Sew-Along here:
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What is stretch thread? Elastic thread or wooly nylon maybe?
ReplyDeleteAny textured thread, like Wooly Nylon, PolyYarn or Bulky Nylon (Guttermann brand) will work in the bobbin to give your seams extra elasticity when sewing with knits. But in a pinch I have gone without it.
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