In light of our upcoming Malibu Sew-Along, we thought we would cover the myriad of options for hemming knit garments from the most professional to easiest.
COVERSTITCH: The twin or triple needle stitching you see on the hems of most ready-to-wear (RTW) knit garments. The top looks like parallel rows of straight stitching and the underside looks like serger loops which cover the raw edge. A coverstitch machine is needed for this. However, many top of the line sergers have a coverstitch function.
ROLLED HEM: A narrow, dense stitch made on the edge of the fabric. If you own a serger, a rolled hem is a quick and easy way to finish a knit garment and a great way to add pizazz by using a contrasting thread color. Make sure you use a textured thread like Woolly Nylon®, PolyarnTM , Maxi-Lock® stretch thread or Bulky Nylon® on the upper looper to get that thick, rich-looking rolled hem (follow your serger’s instructions for a 3-thread rolled hem).
LETTUCE EDGE: While doing a rolled hem, if you set your serger’s differential feed to maximum stretch and also stretch the fabric slightly with your fingers while you feed it through, it’ll give the edge of your garment a wavy, ruffled finish like lettuce leaves.
FAUX COVERSTITCH: Fool even the most discerning eye into thinking you finished your garment with a coverstitch machine by using a stretch twin needle on your sewing machine. To achieve this look, press your hem toward the wrong side. With a medium stitch length and using your twin needle, stitch your hem down from the right side of the garment. Make sure you use a textured thread like Woolly Nylon®, PolyarnTM, Maxi-Lock® stretch thread, or Bulky Nylon® in the bobbin to give your hems maximum elasticity. When pressing and folding a hem, fusible hem tape will help hold everything in place.
ZIG-ZAG STITCH: For a funky, homemade look, press your hem toward the wrong side. Set your sewing machine to a zig-zag stitch at medium stitch length and stitch your hem down from the right side of the garment. Make sure you use a textured thread like Woolly Nylon®, PolyarnTM, Maxi-Lock® stretch thread, or Bulky Nylon® in the bobbin to give your hems maximum elasticity. When pressing and folding a hem, fusible hem tape will help hold everything in place.
RAW EDGE: For a more shabby-chic or grungy look, leave your hems unfinished on your knit garments. Your knit fabrics will not ravel but the raw edges might curl up a bit over time, depending on the type of knit fabric you used.
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