Modkid Modified // Sleeveless Vivian

Thursday, May 24, 2018

Sleeveless button-downs and shirtdresses are a classic summer style. Altering the Vivian Shirtdress to a sleeveless style only requires a few basic steps.

Let me walk you through the pattern alterations first. A dress with sleeves will have a larger armscye to accommodate the sleeve and the shoulder will extend to point where the shoulder/arm bend. To avoid gaping without the sleeve, we need to bring the underarm of the armscye up and the shoulder in. Tape a piece of paper behind your pattern piece to construct the changes. The shoulder width I've used is 2.5" for the size 7 shirtdress. I also brought the armscye up by 3/4". These measurements will vary by size, so I recommend checking with an existing shirt or muslin. Keep in mind you will lose an additional 1/4" when the binding is attached. Mark the shoulder point and underarm point then draw a new curve between them.

The same alterations need to be made for the back of the pattern. Overlap the top panel with the bottom panel 1/2" for the seam allowance and align at the armscye. Again, mark the new shoulder and underarm points and draw the curve between.

Trim the pattern to the new armscye.

After completing the dress per the pattern instructions, it is time to apply binding to the armscye. I am using pre-made 1/2" single fold bias tape. Starting pinning the bias tape to the armscye right sides together with the beginning end extending past the underarm seam 1/2". Pin all the way around.

You can see how my bias tape overlaps the underarm seam.

Trim the end of the bias tape 1/2" past the underarm seam so both ends overlap and mark where the seam location is on each end of the bias tape.

Pull your last pins out, so you can bring the bias tape right sides together. Stitch the bias tape at the marked seam.

Press the seam allowance open.

Stitch the bias tape to the armscye in the first fold of the bias tape.

Press the seam allowance toward the bias tape and the bias tape away from the shirt.

Now, press the bias tape to the inside of the armscye making sure the inner fold is tucked inside.

Stitch along the inner folded edge of the bias tape enclosing all raw edges.

Press the seam from the right side for a nice crisp finish.

Don't forget we also have a tutorial for shortening the Shirtdress to a top length. This sleeveless alteration will certainly work well for both styles. 

No comments:

Post a Comment

Proudly designed by | mlekoshi Playground |