Modkid Modified // Annika with Gathered Shirttail

Friday, November 09, 2018

Are you ready for some fall sewing inspiration?!? Depending on the weight of fabric used for the Annika Sweater Pattern, this garment can work well for fall or winter. By adding a ruffle shirttail hem, we've created a slightly more feminine look that styles well with jeggings and leggings. In fact, you could easily pair this sweathshirt with a pair of Modkid Perfect Leggings

Let's get to the step-by-step tutorial on creating the gathered shirttail hem. First, prepare the sweatshirt according to the pattern instructions up until the hem bands. For this look, cut two front hem bands and omit the back hem band. Prepare the hem bands, but do not attach them just yet.

Also cut 2 rectangular pieces to create the hem ruffle. The length of the rectangle is 1.5 times the full width of the Annika front bodice piece (not on the fold). In my case, 1.5 x 16 = 24" for a size 6. The height of the rectangle is 5.75" for all sizes. This is based on 2.75" + folded hem band height (2.5" for all sizes) + hem allowance so, 2.75 + 2.5 + 0.5 = 5.75". If you would like the ruffle to extend below the hem further, increase the 2.75" number. In my case, I cut 2 rectangles 24" long x 5.75" high. We've used a woven cotton here, but knit fabric would also work.

Sew the short ends of the rectangles right sides together on one side with a 1/2" seam allowance. Finish the seam.

If you like our method of avoiding pressing in the round (tips and tricks link), press a 1/4" hem to the wrong side of the fabric enclosing the raw edge.

Unfold the hem and sew the other short ends of the rectangle right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance creating a circle of fabric. Finish the seam. Repress the hem at the new seam.

Stitch your hem close to the inner fold. Then, use your preferred gathering method to gather the hem ruffle. Check out our gathering tips and tricks here. Gather the fabric circle to match the width of the Annika bodice.

Pin the hem band pieces to the Annika bodice per the pattern instructions. Baste in place if desired. Next, pin the ruffle right sides together to the Annika bodice with raw edges aligned. The hem band will be sandwiched in between. Stitch the seam with 1/2" seam allowance and finish the raw edges. 

Press the seam allowance toward the bodice and the hem and ruffle down.

Check out Sweeter Than Cupcakes for more photos and fabric details.

Also note, this gathered shirttail hem technique can be used for the Annika Girls, Annika Tween/Teen and the Modkid Breeann with the shirttail hem tutorial.

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