Introducing... Club Havana

I am over the moon excited to introduce you to my newest fabric collection for Riley Blake Designs, called Club Havana.

This line was inspired by a vacation we took with my extended family last Summer to celebrate my parents' 50th Wedding Anniversary. My mom is Costa Rican and my dad is Puerto Rican, but one of their bucket list items has always been to go to Cuba, so we had to make it happen. I loved Cuba so much that I knew right away I needed to turn those scrumptious colors and vibrant imagery into some wearable art.

Once you step off the boat onto the streets of Havana, one of the most striking and memorable things you'll see is the abundance of American classic cars painted in bright, fun colors that are cruising the streets. These are called "Boteros" and are mostly used as taxi cabs for tourists or more affluent locals. Of course, I couldn't resist taking a few dozen pictures.

As soon as I saw these cars, I knew that I wanted this line to have a rougher, more "hand drawn" look & feel, much less tight and vectorized than all my previous lines. I started doing some rough sketches in Photoshop, and I immediately loved the result...

The "Boteros" print was born, and the rest of the line took shape from that point on.

I drew the rest of the line, including lots of florals, some happy pineapples, a very tropical IKAT print and a rounded cross, using the same loose hand drawn style as I had used for the Boteros print. View the full collection here.

This is truly one of my favorite lines I have ever drawn because it came from a place of happiness and love.

Next, I would like to share with you some sewn samples made with the Club Havana advance yardage. I knew I had to make a Stella Purse, because this is the very first pattern my mother designed for MODKID, many years ago. It's a very structured bag with a modern look and feel. It features a zippered panel closure with one outer pocket and two inner pockets.

I also made a pair of Natalie & Nate rompers because I wanted to showcase the sweetness of the Pineapple and the Boteros prints together...

Our dear friend, Maryanna Powel, of Marvelous Auntie M, sewed up this gorgeous Houndstooth Quilt using the 6 color ways of my Rounded Cross print. How fun is this?!?

And last, but certainly not least, the 3 color ways of my Pineapples print was selected to be printed in a super soft Jersey Knit, and I am beyond thrilled about it because I LOVE sewing with knits!!

Courtney Davis, of Sweeter Than Cupcakes, made the Modkid Malibu Dress for her oldest daughter and a Laguna Summer Top with Spring Break Shorts for the youngest. The result is the perfect sister set!

Invisible Stitch Knit Binding

I love learning new sewing techniques, and when I do, I like to pass them along to you. We have previously posted 3 techniques for knit binding, so today I bring you a fourth with a special twist. The stitching is nearly invisible!! This binding method also reduces a little bulk if you happen to be using a thicker rib knit for the binding. I am using the Modkid Malibu Dress for this example, but the technique can be applied in multiple situations. Be sure to check out our Malibu Sew-Along for additional tips.

If you are new to sewing with knits, be sure to check out our Tips for Sewing with Knits. You will notice my binding strip is slightly shorter than the fabric piece. Binding should always be stretched slightly as you sew, so the end result will lay flat. Keep this in mind as we proceed. The seam allowance for the pattern is 1/2" and the binding width is 1.5". I am using ribbed knit in this case, but other knit types with good stretch and recovery would work well here. This technique would not apply to woven binding.

First, stitch the binding to the main fabric right sides together with a 1/2" seam allowance and a stretch stitch, stretching the binding slightly as you stitch. Here, I have used my serger that trimmed the seam allowance as I sewed. If you are using a regular sewing machine, be sure to stitch with a stretch stitch. Then trim the seam allowance to 1/4". A stretch thread such as Maxi-lock thread in your bobbin with provide additional stretch to the seam.

Press the seam open and the seam allowance toward the binding.

Wrap the binding around the seam allowance to the wrong side and press well.

Select a straight stitch on your machine. The triple stitch, number 6 on my machine, is perfect in this situation. It makes a straight stitch that still stretches by creating 3 back and forth stitches for every 1 stitch in length. Melissa of Melly Sews recently posted a great video showing this stitch. I recommend, again, using stretch thread in your bobbin. If your machine does not have the triple stitch, using a long straight stitch with stretch thread in the bobbin may still work. Test out the stretch to make sure it is sufficient.

To create the "invisible" stitch, you will stitch in the ditch between the main fabric and the binding. An edge stitch or blind hem foot can help keep the alignment here.

For best results, match the thread to the main fabric not the binding. You can just barely see the stitches in the lighter stripe of the fabric.

The raw edge of the binding remains exposed on the wrong side of the fabric, but one of the beauties of sewing with knits is that the fabric will not unravel. If the raw edge tends to curl, you can trim it a bid closer to the stitch line.

Always give your garment a nice, steamy press when complete to make sure any knit that gets slightly stretched in the process of sewing shrinks up to it intended shape.

Other patterns where this method might come in handy are the Modkid Lexi and the Malibu Misses. Be sure to let us know if you give this a try! 

Modkid Modified // Perfect Leggings with Yoga Skirt

Every July the ladies behind Simple Simon & Company and Project Run & Play host an event called Skirting the Issue.  Skirting the Issue is a month long event where you are invited to sew along by making skirts (and quilts and pillowcases)  to donate to local Foster Care centers for the girls (and boys) to receive. Ready all about it HERE.

For a little skirt inspiration, we've blended two Modkid patterns into the perfect playground skort! You can think of it as the Perfect Leggings with the addition of a yoga skirt. Or, think of it as the FREE Yoga Skirt with the addition of shorts underneath. Either way it's a win! 

You will need knit fabric, the Perfect Leggings pattern and the Free Yoga Skirt tutorial. First, cut the perfect leggings pattern in your desired size. Hold off cutting the skirt pieces until the shorts are assembled. Note: All seam allowances are 1/2" unless noted otherwise.

Assemble the shorts per the pattern instructions until step 4. Basically you will stop when it is time to sew the waistband elastic. I chose to wait to hem the legs until I was ready to hem the skirt, so I would only switch to my twin needle once.

I found the yoga skirt waistband to be a bit tight with this fabric, I recommend measuring the waist of the shorts you just assembled. Use that measurement for the width of the waistband. You do not need to account for a seam allowance, since you want the band to be a bit tighter than the shorts. Use the same height for the waistband, 15", as the tutorial indicates. Also, cut the band in one rectangle so all of our seams with be at the center back. For my skirt, the shorts waist measured 20", so I cut a waistband rectangle 20" wide (direction of stretch) and 15" tall. Sew the rectangle right sides together along the 15" side forming a circle. Fold this tube in half wrong sides together to create the waistband with a finished folded edge and two raw edges. Now is a good time to test the fit on the intended wearer. You want the waistband to fit snugly to hold up the skirt!

Determine the length of the skirt using the same method as the yoga skirt tutorial just be sure the finished length will be longer than the shorts. Cut the skirt that length for the full width of the fabric. Again, keeping it one piece, so the seam will be at the center back. Fold the rectangle in half right sides together and stitch the short ends together forming a circle of fabric.

Now is the time to hem the skirt and the shorts per pattern and tutorial instructions. Then, run a gathering stitch along the top of the skirt. We have a great set of tips and tricks on gathering.

Insert the shorts inside the skirt aligning the top edges and the back center seams with the right side of the shorts facing the wrong side of the skirt. Baste the skirt to the shorts.

Lay your waistband over the right side of the yoga skirt’s top gathered edge aligning back center seam and keeping raw edges even. The shorts will be on the inside. Pin in place all around, adjusting the skirt’s gathered edge to fit. Stitch with a stretch stitch. You will be stitching through the shorts, gathered skirt, and two layers of the waistband.

Turn the waist band right side out and fold the yoga waistband down.

That's it!! Perfect for twirling, swinging, and hanging on the monkey bars! Don't just limit yourself to shorts here either. Skirted leggings would be equally cute!

Introducing Modkid Tessa

The Modkid Tessa was released over the weekend, and I'm hear to tell you a bit more about it. This stylish jogger set is perfect for fall and back to school sewing! It includes a sweatshirt with a high-low hem style and a set of pleats right at the hem for a bit of added flair. It also includes a pair of cropped jogging pants with inseam pockets, pleated hems and a comfy waistband with both elastic and drawstring. The Tessa is the perfect style for play time, exercise, or cuddling on the couch.

The pattern comes in sizes 2T to 12. Recommended fabrics include medium- to heavy-weight knit fabrics with at least 50% stretch and good recovery -- 58"/60" wide. Try Stretch Fleece, French Terry, Stretch Velvet, Velour, Ponte de Roma or Sweater Knits. You may use Cotton Lycra or Jersey for a lightweight set. Use Rib Knits or a fabric with high lycra content for the cuffs and bands. So many possibilities!!

You can see how each tester made it unique!!

Jenny Fish

Heather Jones

Heather Turner

Courtney Davis

Kristy Atkinson

Michelle Floyd

Cindy Df

Rachel Reese

Rachel Ring

Stacey Morales

Teresa Martin