Modkid Modified // Hailey with Elastic Casing

The shirred empire waist of the Modkid Hailey top and dress pattern creates a fitted silhouette that is comfortable and stretchy. Shirring with elastic thread is a fun technique to learn, but we often see requests for an alternative. An elastic casing is the solution. After sewing up an eyelet coverup style Hailey for myself, I decided one for my daughter was in order. I have applied an elastic casing tutorial for your use.

In addition to the free shirring tutorial for the Modkid Hailey, we have a knit neck binding tutorial, so be sure to check that out before diving in. After completing the first three steps of the Hailey pattern instructions for the bodice, sew the side seams below the arm opening and finish the seam allowances. Also, sew the side seams of the skirt pieces and finish the seam allowances. You will now have a separate bodice and skirt piece.

Turn the bodice right sides out and place it inside the skirt so that the right sides are together.

Align the raw edges and sew the seam with a 1/2" seam allowance. Finish the seam, but make sure NOT to trim off any of the seam allowance. Press seam allowance toward the skirt.

Sew a casing by stitching the seam allowance to the skirt 1/8" from the finished edge. Leave a 2" gap close to the side seam for inserting the elastic.

Cut a 1/4" wide piece of elastic the same length as the under bust measurement. Using a safety pin or bodkin, thread the elastic through the casing. Overlap the elastic 1/2" and sew the ends together making sure the elastic is not twisted inside the casing. Now is a good time to check the fit and adjust the elastic as needed. Very tight elastic here may not result in a comfortable fit. Sew the casing closed at the 2" opening.

Hem the dress or top and you are done!! You can find more photos of this Hailey on Sweeter Than Cupcakes.

Don't forget that we have 3 different size ranges for the Hailey pattern, Girls, Tween, and Misses. This elastic casing method will work well for all three!

Modkid Hailey and Bundles!!!

By popular demand, BUNDLES have been added to the Modkid Etsy shop!! You can now buy all of our "Mommy and Me" patterns (Hailey, Melanie and Malibu) as 2-piece bundles that cost $15.95, which is a saving of $4.00 from the cost of buying them separately.

Today, I am highlighting the Hailey girls pattern, and the many ways it can be styled. This may just become your favorite little black dress!! 

 From poolside, to a rodeo, to a formal gathering, the Hailey has you covered. We have layered and accessorized a few of our favorite looks, but the options are limitless!

It's not a stretch to envision each of these looks for the Misses Hailey as well! How would you wear your Hailey? Don't forget the Hailey first started as a paper pattern in Teen sizing, so every size range is covered.

Acorn Valley Blog Tour // Day 6

We are getting your Monday started off right with more of our Acorn Valley Blog Tour inspiration! As a reminder the tour features Patty Young's latest fabric line with Riley Blake that she introduced here. Take a looks at today's makes!

These two modified Hailey Dresses by Christina at 2 Little Hooligans are simple but oh so sweet in the Flutter fabrics.

Kristi of Sweet KM self drafted a tank style top and tiered dress for her stop on the tour. The result is simply perfect. 

Remember to enter to win the set of flannel fabrics when you visit these bloggers. This week promises to include many more ideas and combinations including more of the flannel fabrics. Stay tuned!!

Monday 7/11: Riley Blake & Modkid

Tuesday 7/12: Sweeter Than Cupcakes & That's Sew Kari

Wednesday 7/13: Beri Bee Design & Falafel and the Bee

Thursday 7/14: Sew and Tell Project & Handmade Martini

Friday 7/15: Coral & Co. & Pear Berry Lane

Monday 7/18: Sweet KM & 2 Little Hooligans

Tuesday 7/19: Highered Hands & Sue O'Very Designs

Wednesday 7/20: Smashed Peas and Carrots & Gingham Girls

Thursday 7/21: Flamingo Toes & Quilting Gallery

Friday 7/22: Ameroonie Designs

Modkid Modified // Hailey Pullover

The Modkid Hailey pattern is usually reserved for warmer temperatures. Today, I am transforming the Hailey to a pullover for layering in cooler temps. It is quite a transformation, but the steps are pretty simple.

You will only need the Back Bodice pattern piece. Trace the Back Bodice pattern piece onto a piece of freezer paper or tissue paper to create a new pattern piece. Lengthen the top as desired using a well fitting shirt as a guide. Keep in mind you will have a 1/2" hem, and you may want the top to hit shorter than the top you will layer it with. I added 5.75" to this size 4 pattern piece.

Now, create the front pattern piece. The front pattern piece is a duplicate of the back, but the neck scoops down further. Again, use another pattern or a well fitting shirt as a guide.

Cut the front and back pattern pieces from your fabric. I recommend fleece or sweatshirt fabric for this look. Just be sure you have at least 25% stretch with good recovery.

Sew the front piece to the back piece along the shoulders right sides together. Finish the seams.

Open out the top and finish all of the outer edges. If your fabric does not fray, you may skip this step.

Turn the underarm seams 1/2" to the wrong side and hem. Go slow along the curves. Repeat at all four underarm seams.

Next, fold the front bottom hem to the wrong side 1/2" and sew in place. Repeat for the back.

Fold the sleeves to the wrong side 1/2" and sew in place. Repeat for the opposite side.

For the mock turtleneck, you will need to cut a rectangle to fit the neckline. Measure the distance around your neck opening for the length. Mine measured 14.25". Add 1" for seam allowances. I used 5.5" for the total height. So, my rectangle was 15.25" x 5.5". Fold the neck right sides together and sew the short ends with a 1/2" seam allowance. Press the seam open.

Fold the neck in half along the long side with the right side facing out.

Place the neck band around the neck opening of the top right side together and sew in place. Be sure to use a stretch stitch here since the neck area with need to stretch overhead.

Fold the front over the back and stitch the front to the back under the arm opening. Stitch over your previous hem stitches.

Secure the sides together with 3 buttons spaced evenly on each side.

Done! Layer up your modified Hailey for those cooler temps! Don't forget this method would work for the Hailey Misses and Hailey Tween/Teen as well!

Modkid Styled - Hailey Cover Up

Now that we have a couple Tips & Tricks under our belt with the Modkid Hailey, how about a style idea?!? This easy style is perfect for a cover-up! You just have to decide if dress length or tunic length is more your style! I've used a lightweight French Terry for a little absorbency. Just make sure your fabric is lightweight to get the maximum gathering effect of the shirring. The Hailey as a cover up doesn't need to be limited to little girls. Make one for yourself or your tween too!

1. Pink French Terry
2. Pom Pom Swimsuit
3. Straw Hat
4. Shoes

Tips & Tricks: Shirring with Elastic Thread

Since I was in the middle of a Hailey top for our knit binding tips and tricks, I thought I would continue with some shirring tips.

Shirring with elastic thread results in a stretchy, comfortable style with added texture. It is a simple technique that only requires elastic thread. I'll start with some basic tips for shirring then give you some troubleshooting ideas at the bottom.

First, you will need to wind the elastic thread onto a bobbin by hand using a steady rhythm, not too tight and not too loose. I try to hold is just past the point of stretching, but not tight at all.

I also like to place the spool of elastic thread on the extra thread holder of my machine to hold it in place while I wind the bobbin by hand.

Wind the thread back and forth on the width of the bobbin keeping it neat and tidy. You can see my threads aren't spread all over the place.

Place the bobbin in your machine, and you are ready to go. Here are the general guidelines:

• Shirring works well with light weight fabrics only, knit or woven.
• Use a regular thread for the top in a color that matches your fabric.
• Use your longest machine stitch and regular tension. 
• With the garment right side up, line the edge of your presser foot up so that the needle will enter about 1/4" away from your seam or edge. Use the seam as a guide to make your first row of shirred stitches across the entire width of the garment. Backstitch at the beginning.

For the Hailey pattern, the back and front of the top/dress are sewn together on one side with the opposite side open. This allows you to sew the shirring in place while the top is flat. I will give another tip at the end if you are sewing in the round.

Once you've sewn the first row of shirring, trail off the fabric slightly, rotate your garment (with the right side still up) and use the previous row of stitching as your new guide to line up the edge of your presser foot.

As you can see, the first row the elastic will not pull very tight.

As you continue to add rows of shirring the elastic will start to gather more. As you sew, keep the fabric flat under your needle. The more rows of shirring you sew, then more gathered the fabric will be.

Once you've sewn the desired number of rows of shirring backstitch at the end of the row. Now, if you've never shirred before and you are anxious that the fabric has not gathered enough, run your hot iron with steam over the rows of stitching. You will see the fabric shrink up more like magic!

Personally, I like to complete the garment before I give the final steam. I just find it a bit easier to sew before it is fully gathered. So, the photo above is the completed garment before steaming.

This photo is after running over the stitches with a steamy iron. Magic, right?!?

If you are sewing a garment in the round instead of flat, stitch one row all the way around. As you come to the end of the row, angle the fabric down to continue to the next row. Essentially you are sewing a spiral, but the rows should remain parallel except at the side seam where you angle the fabric down.

Here are a few additional tips for troubleshooting if you are having trouble:

• Switch to a new needle.
• Re-thread your entire machine,
• Make sure your bobbin is not overly full.
• Make sure your tension is at the normal setting.
• Make sure your fabric is lightweight.
• Check your sewing machine manual for any special instructions.
• Use your longest stitch length.

In addition to the Hailey Girls, Tween, and Misses patterns, these shirring tips would be helpful for the FREE Modkid Sunny Days tank and the Modkid Bailey Romper.

Tips & Tricks: Knit Binding

I learned a new tricks that I'm excited to share with you today. It's the perfect finish for a Hailey top or dress when you are sewing with woven fabrics. Knit binding!!

I love this technique for the smooth finish, but also for the soft feel. T-shirt scraps are cheaper than pre-made bias tape too!

I'm using the Modkid Hailey to illustrate the knit binding technique, so I started with the bodice with the front seam still un-sewn. You will also need a 1" strip of knit fabric.

Pin the wrong side of the knit to the right side of the bodice aligning the raw edges.

Stitch the binding to the neckline with a 1/2" seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" and clip the curve.

Press the seam to the wrong side and the binding away from the neckline.

Press the knit binding to the wrong side of the bodice rolling the seam to the inside slightly, so the binding will not be visible from the right side.

Stitch the binding down from the right side with a 3/8" seam allowance.

Trim the knit binding if needed. The knit edge will not fray, so you are done!

Close up the neck per the pattern instructions.

Of course, this technique isn't limited to Hailey Girls! We would suggest it for Hailey Misses, Hailey Tween, and Josie. It would work great for binding an arm hole as well!

13 Days of Modkid Halloween // Day 4

It's a new week full of Modkid Halloween inspiration! Who doesn't love Minnie Mouse?!? Here are a couple looks to make those little Minnie fans smile.

Anna Larson gave a fun Asian spin on a Minnie outfit with the Modkid Kyoko pattern.

Kimono Minnie by Evie Pie

If you need a quick sew for a Halloween costume, the Hailey pattern is a great pick. Kari's Minnie styling is perfectly sweet and can be worn well after the holiday.

Minnie by Kari Steiger

MODKID PDF patterns can be found on Etsy, Craftsy, and YCMT 

MODKID Paper patterns can be found here 

We'll be showing your costumes made from Modkid patterns, pdf or paper, each of the 13 weekdays leading up to Halloween. To participate share your photos on Facebook, Instagram or Twitter and tag them with #modkidhalloween or post photos in our Facebook Halloween album. It's that simple!!